Days six - The storms & Evangelistria monastery.

A cloudy day dawned today after immense storms during the night!
I was woken around 2am by the thunder and lightning. I went out onto the balcony of our room to marvel at nature. WOW! This was one hell of a storm! Even though I was well under the balcony, I was still getting wet with splashes from the deluge pouring down. They don't 'do' gutters much here, as they don't usually need them. Tonight, they really needed them. Water was flooding some parts of the hotel (we were OK), and even coming through a couple of the corridor skylights! The poor owner said he'd lived there 38 years, and never seen this much rain in such a short time.

You can see short videos of the storm from our balcony, click Here  HERE  HERE  HERE and HERE

At breakfast, the rain still hadn't abated.

This was our patio view. Click HERE

We now had the car, so decided to drive to the end of the main road, bus stop 18 - Koukanaries. The rain had stopped, but there were heavy clouds all around.

We sat on the mostly deserted beach, and watched the storm approaching!

Click HERE to see the lightning striking out at sea.

Not much of a photo' day, but we still enjoyed the show (and got to read some of our holiday books). We watched from our car as the car park at Koukanaries filled with water, eventually to calf depth. How do I know? Well, a gallant guy gave his wife a piggy-back to the bus stop, and that's where the water came to on his legs! The people already at the stop gave him a big round of applause. The rain came with a vengeance. So much so, that the imminent scheduled bus didn't turn up for over an hour! When it did, the dozen or so people at the stop had to walk down to road to get on - there was no WAY the driver was going to take his bus into what looked like a swimming pool!

When the storm calmed, we drove off to bus stop 18, parked up, and did another restaurant on the bucket list. This one was called 'Orsa'. Although opposite another one that was rated, the salt and pepper, we decided either would be good.

Again, super food, this time our first beef stifado.

We thought, with the weather as it was, we'd just do a bit of exploring in the car. Now, apart from the one main road on Skiathos, a lot of the others are 'interesting'! After the sat nav tried to send us up a flight of steps, I turned it off, and we resorted to map reading. Twisting and turning, we managed to get quite high up. Here's a view over the airport and Skopelos.

This was one place we were hoping to find, Platanos restaurant.
The entrance is very welcoming.

Some great objects in the courtyard, these shells are some of the biggest I've ever seen.

A nice old anchor (and there was a propeller there too).

Great views, looking down to Skiathos town.

We pressed on, stopping at this chapel. 

Why wouldn't you? These places are dotted around the island, and look simple enough, but inside........

Amazing! And just open to the public. I can't imagine how they'd fare in the UK.

Each one, no expense spared. Just look at that lovely chandelier and floor.

Icons and paintings of saints all over the place.

Intricate murals too.

Saint George seemed to be a favourite, here and in others we'd visited.

This sign pointed to another 'must do', as described by previous visitors and friends, the Evagelistria monastery. We parked the car, and decided to walk to the monastery.

What a lovely, simple and surprisingly new-looking building. We were expecting an antiquity.

This is where the jaw-dropping starts!

This place is incredible, it really is. From the dozens of cats around the place, to the herb gardens, the intricate stonework, you really just HAVE to be there to take it all in.

This part was out of bounds - it was the monks living quarters.

What a peaceful place to walk and think. You can't help but feel reverent when here. Look how well this land is tended.

The shrimp plant, as it's known. Sue told me, and I can see why.

The terraces of fresh herbs.

Cats relaxing in the courtyard.

I saw into a room where there was what looked like a senior monk. He was talking to a couple in hushed tones. We went in gingerly, feeling as if we were almost desecrating the place by just being there. I can't explain why, it just felt like that.

We saw a younger monk by the door, fingering his prayer beads, and looking deep in meditation. He looked up briefly and smiled.

The older monk had, by now, finished talking to the other couple, who left. 

He engaged us, and was really, really friendly. He exuded calm. We liked him right away. I asked if it was OK to take pictures inside, and he said yes, but no flash on the paintings. No problem.

We looked up at this stunning ceiling. To see it is to wonder! HOW was it done? So many styles, and tiny bricks. Was one of the monks a master builder?

I asked the old monk. He said no, it was all done by a group of the brothers. Where did they acquire such skills, I asked? He told me they built it on the ground again and again, until it was perfect. They then transferred their knowledge to the roof, and this was the result.

I have NEVER seen anything like it before!

We left, astounded. Back to normality, as these kittens briefly raised their heads from their afternoon nap to see what we were up to.

Back in Skiathos town, we parked up and walked into town along the harbour road, with views over the harbour. 

 That sky still looks VERY angry, doesn't it?

We ate at 'Portabello'. This time we had the moussaka, another traditional Greek dish. Again, tasty to the max! Their garlic bread was great - something we're specialists on!

We again strolled back down Papadiamanti street, taking in the ambiance of the place.

Then, a few spots of rain started to fall. Then a LOT of rain. We ducked under the canopy of a creperie. Of course, it would have been rude not to have one - so we did. Sue loves them, I'm not as fussed, but I must admit, it was lovely. The rain came really hard again, and the shop opposite the creperie was selling small umbrellas for five euros. Someone joked they were only three euros when it wasn't raining ;-)

By the time we left, the rain had eased a little, so we didn't get really wet. Not as it mattered. It was warm, we'd had a great day, and we still had a large portion of our holiday left.

What's not to like? 

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Day Five - Skopolos & Mamma Mia

The next day, we were to take the 'Mamma Mia' boat trip to a nearby island, Skopelos. The Abba video was shot here and on Skiathos, and we just felt we HAD to go and see the sights. Besides, it was the perfect day for it! Sunrise from our balcony was spectacular, and set us up for an early start for a great day ahead. 

First, we had to catch the sardine express again - "room for one more", said the conductor!!!
Well, we DID manage to squeeze on, but it was tight!

At Skiathos old harbour, we boarded our boat for the trip, the Poseidon.
It was surprisingly full, not overfull, it's just at this back end of the season we were used to places being sparsely populated, like Aselinos beach, but they were a good-looking and happy bunch.

Anyway, after a shaky start (a half hour delay due to the anchor getting tangled up) we were off! With the music from Mamma Mia playing over the sound system, the bar open, and the sun beating down, what could be better?

Looking back as we passed the Bourtzi cafe on the harbour promontory.

The sea was calm, the breeze warm, and conditions perfect as we enjoyed the trip.

 The skipper constantly pointed out points of interest and little beach gems tucked away here and there.

Beautiful white cliffs reflected the sun as we continued towards Skopelos island. Our first stop though, was a beach on Skiathos that is quite unreachable, except by boat. I'm amazed they haven't put a road of some sort to it, as it's so popular.

There's nothing on the beach - not even a beach bar, only the odd mermaid, one of which I got a shot of, sitting on a rock.

She even let me join her, so long as I didn't do anything 'fishy'!

All these people were dropped off by various boats. Again, we're not used to this level of populous, but it was such a perfect place, we just 'put up with it' ;-)

We donned our snorkels, and set off for the arch. Legend has it (we were told by the skipper), if you swim under the archway once, you get good luck. Do it twice (females only) it brought pregnancy, do it three times, and you would get eternal life!!

We thought we'd risk it once!
Click HERE for underwater footage.

All too soon, it was time to go. One look back as we made for Skopelos.

Everyone was relaxed and enjoying the trip.

The harbour was just beyond this outcrop.

 Sue got me, getting the shot.

Was that the famous church, we wondered???

You can see a video of coming into Skopelos harbour HERE

Take note of how serene and benign it looks today.

The skipper reversed into the harbour and we disembarked to explore, but first - a snack and a beer.

We looked out on a very peaceful scene.

Again, the food was faultless. In places like this, they could just serve trash, and probably get away with it. But I know from experience, you get FAR more pleasure out of giving customers a treat, rather than not. 

It's a pride thing.

The larger Helenic ferry had it's own dock on the other side of the harbour.

Even in this heat, we just had to climb the many steps to the top of the town, and the small church that was up there

 (if only for the views).

Lots of cats, as always.

This one looked decidedly comfortable in the sun.

As expected, the views opened up the more we climbed.

Even up here, beautiful plants, shrubs and trees grew, lovingly tended by the inhabitants.

Sue poses, almost at the top.

A quick look back at the harbour.

a 'well done, darling' selfie at the top.

We decided to make our way back down through the maze of back streets. Navigation wasn't hard - just keep going downhill.

Lots of little things made these houses special. A balustrade here, a balcony there, the simple but lovely way the floor was done, the paint scheme, flowers - all attractive to the eye.

We left this quiet, laid back, chilled-out harbour to continue our journey. Little did we know what disaster was awaiting the place later that night. These steep, smooth streets would play a big part.

On the way back, the sea was noticeably choppier than this morning.

"There's a storm coming", said the skipper.

 When we got back to the hotel, we were informed that tomorrow's showing of Mamma Mia in the outdoor cinema had been cancelled, due to the incoming storm. We found out the next morning just how vicious that storm was, and how it affected poor Skopelos.

Watch a very short video of the incredible force of water, complete with cars being washed into the harbour, click HERE

And a longer one of the aftermath, click HERE

Everyone was stunned at the damage, incredible to think we were sitting in such a calm environment only HOURS before!

Anyway, back to the present. It was time to see the famous Agios Ionnis chapel on top of a steep lump of rock. This is where the Mamma Mia wedding was set, but they didn't actually film the wedding inside the little church - it was FAR too small to get all the people in the video in there!

Again, the boat disgorged us, and backed out to sea a little way to let other boats drop people off.
The biggest problem on this beach was wasps - THOUSANDS of them!

Here we were - 'unstung heroes' on our way to heaven (by way of the small church).

We were lucky enough to witness the end of a proper wedding. This place has become HUGELY popular for weddings since the Mamma Mia thing. Only stipulation is, you must be Greek orthodox.

Here she is, the blushing bride.

But HOW she got up all these steep steps in her high heels, I'll never know. This wasn't the only steep set of steps either, there were lots more to climb - 202 altogether!.

I noticed this strange rock formation on the way up.

Almost there...

Looking down on our boat (and the wasps).

Inside the chapel, it's very obvious that this wasn't used in the video. So what? I'd been to Ireland and visited a pub in a TV drama, THAT interior wasn't used - so what?. I'd been to Yorkshire to a pub used in another drama, THAT interior wasn't used - so what?

 To me, it wasn't important, but to some, it was a MASSIVE disappointment. 

Read about the other side of the coin HERE

In the small churchyard at the top.

It's also a 'must do' to ring the bell.

Sue hasn't QUITE got the gist of it, but she's learning!

Click HERE to see her trying :-)

Time to make our way (carefully) back down.

This must be an absolute NIGHTMARE in the height of the season, with all the hoards who come here!

Today - tranquility and peace.

The boat returned, we left the wasps and headed out to sea for our return to Skiathos.

One great aspect of the long day was that we got to see this beautiful sunset on our way back. A terrific end to a terrific day.

Although the wind was picking up slightly, who could have guessed what was coming to Skopelos that night by way of the weather?

A steady stroll up Papadiamati street, a quick nightcap, then off to bed.

Perchance to sleep? 

Not for long!

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